At about 4:45am I woke to see two headlamps coming off the trail and searching for the spring I was camped near. If I had known who it was (and been dressed) I’d have snuck over in the darkness and surprised them. Probably just appearing on the log next to them when they sat down after filling their bottles. Instead I turned on my light and tried asking them if they needed help. I had to ask quietly so I wouldn’t wake Rumble and they couldn’t hear me so I just laid back and went to sleep.

When I woke again I was alone. Up over the ridge the world was very different. A thick fog was down in the valley so downhill to my left I couldn’t see anything and it seemed as if the PCT was the only thing left in this world. The trees in front of me were a damp green colour but as they rose to the canopy they just became grey on grey. Mushrooms continue to line the trail. They’re huge and wonderful in their oddness. Some the size of dinner plates they often have dirt on top and cracked ground around their stalks as if they burst through fully grown.

Funky fungi

I’m told this is edible, but has “side effects”

After Barlow Pass the trail went steeply up hill and emerged from the trees with a close-up view of Mt Hood. The soft sand and low shrubbery could have been from beach-front land, so strange to see it in the approach to a ski resort. That last push was made more pleasant by the lupins and other purple-tinted flowers. I’m always happy when something smells good and stronger than me.

Mount Hood and the field of lupins
At the lodge I found loads of hikers. The Noodleheads had done 42 miles yesterday to make it here for breakfast and it was TeaTree and Nafta that woke me this morning.

I ate a lot of food discarded from people’s resupply boxes and I enjoyed the far reaching views back to Mt Jefferson and Sisters. The lodge was apparently used in The Shining, but I wouldn’t have recognised it.

Team HORN leaving Mount Hood
Eventually we got going again. Undulating doesn’t begin to cover this afternoon’s hike. Up and down big ravines, even a considerable river to ford (though we found logs to balance across). Now I’m tired and ready to sleep. We came all this way this evening to reach a shelter and found a notice on the door about mice with hanta-virus, and it smells funny. So we’re all sleeping outside.

Catching a tree with my foot

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Little Crater Lake to Cascade Locks

After yesterday’s stunning alpine-esque scenery today’s pancake walk was pretty dull. But I made good use of it and did my longest day yet at almost 34 miles. The Noodleheads did even more and people coming southbound reported they were last seen 4 miles north, I expect they did at least 40.

The trail was in good condition and very flat but even so I’ve pounded my feet too much and had I continued I’d be blistered into a rest day. There were no views to be had though a couple of nice sights to be seen. Clackamas Lake and Little Crater Lake are both spring fed from below and have that wonderful clear blue colour so you can see the dead trees sitting on the bottom. In Little Crater Lake’s case that’s 45ft down. I really wanted to swim there but a little family was nearby and I didn’t want a fuss.

Little Crater Lake
Rumble is camped here with me. She did 2,300 miles of the trail in 2003 and started from the beginning this year. I don’t know if I’d have the patience to redo so much of it. A Train just left, putting in a couple more miles to counteract him sleeping later than us tomorrow. Everyone’s talking about the Timberline Lodge’s all-you-can-eat (AYCE) brunch. The lodge was used when filming The Shining, it’ll be cool to see that for real.

Quote of the day: “mmmm, these huckleberries go really well on the instant chocolate pudding” – Me. Just now,.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Bend to Little Crater Lake

From today’s high point, a tough 2,700ft above last night’s camp, I could see Mount St. Helens in Washington. Also in view were Mount Adams, Mount Hood and behind us was Mount Jefferson.

The first thing we had to do was cross Milk Creek. The water itself was easy to get across but after a major washout last year the tricky bit is getting down to the edge. The bank now consists of a 15ft slope of loose grit and rock but taken slowly it was passable.

Milk Creek
Before the final push to that viewful crest the trail crossed a plateau that reminded me of the high sierras with the little tarns, paths worn down through soft soil and granite lumps protruding.

At the top I took the time to make a snow-cone. I used a cut-up Gatorade bottle as the scoop and Emergen-C as the flavouring and it was good. So good Rigatoni even made one too, which was fair since he gave me the idea way back at the 1/3 mark.

The snow cone and friends
The descent to Olallie Lake went pretty quickly as I wondered hard about what was in the mystery resupply box, courtesy of BlueSky’s mum, that awaited me there. I was not disappointed. The big pasta meals, complete with oil in a sealed packet, the bars and dried fruit selections. I’m thinking I might even gain weight on this section

Lucky Joe wasn’t so lucky this time. I asked at the store and his package hadn’t arrived so I’ve left him Blue Sky’s portion of the food and hope that will see him through.

This used to say PCT but someone thought that was too useful
For the second night running Angelhair has said how much those two enjoy hiking with me, and tonight she said it would be nice to reach the end together. They’re a cool couple and I’d like that but it’s still 600 miles away and all sorts of stuff can change our plans in that time.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Bend to Little Crater Lake

I continue to wake many times during the night, and last night each time brought a different sky. The stars would be there in all their dazzling brilliance on one turn and then next they’d be obscured by rolling fog.

Into the clouds
I finally decided to get up and packing around 6am when a bunch of cars rolled up with climbers heading for Three Fingered Jack. Though it hadn’t rained my sleeping bag was soaked. I was toasty and dry inside but packing it away meant cold hands. I hate having cold hands.

I thanked Andrew and Ian for their angeling and just as the sun was about to reach our spot the fog came back in and we were enveloped in cold. It got me moving quickly, heading above the clouds, and I was rewarded with incredible views south to Mount Washington poking through towards the sun.

I caught the Noodleheads at the end of their morning break and hiked continuously with them all day. It certainly made the miles go by. We swapped adventures in Europe and I heard about their cycling tour of the US. They’ve effectively been retired since they were 34 and we talked about how that has given them the freedom to really do what fulfills them. Truly a remarkable couple and I hope to stick with them for a while.

drying out at lunch time
The scenery today was amazing. With a few days rain the flowers seem brighter, the greens stronger and the huckleberries were numerous. Crossing over a saddle to see the north side of Three Fingered Jack was quite a climb but so worth it. The top few hundred feet consists of alternating red and black stripes of volcanic rock making quite a sight. Up there I got a strange feeling of winter. Though I was looking down on burned fir forest it reminded me of the woods from my childhood in Sussex. The grey trees, a cold nip in the air and pale blue skies. The ground would be crunchy underneath the mud frozen solid overnight.

The Noodleheads on a quest for Mount Hood
After Shale Lake (now a small pool in a mud circle) we passed through a gulch of purple lupins and small fir trees. With Mount Jefferson shrouded in cloud as a back drop it was picture-perfect and should certainly be in the Oregon brochure.

Tonight I am camping below Mount Jefferson, which finally lost its clouds in time to turn pink at sunset. I’m not putting up my tent but I have all my clothes inside my sleeping bag where I hope they’ll be dry and warm in the morning.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Bend to Little Crater Lake

The rain has gone, for the moment anyway. Under cold blue skies I took down my soaking wet tent and filled my bottles from the freezing spring nearby. I set off quite late from camp to give my stuff a chance to dry. While pacing around I discovered we’d camped right beneath one of the Three Sisters. This section is one of the highlights of Oregon so I’m glad I got to see a bit rather than pass it all in clouds.

I wore only shorts today, with gaiters, because I was fairly confident that with all the volcanic rock we’d be going over I wouldn’t be pushing through damp plants.

The trail was good and mostly down hill until the last mile to Highway 242 where it suddenly crossed a lot of scoria and became an awkward balancing act. It continued on the other side of the road too until a few miles and 1,000ft later at the Belknap saddle where I met the Noodleheads.

A burned forest recovers
On the slopes of Mount Jefferson we went through yet another burned section. This area seemed fresh, the trees still really black and many of them still standing. I wonder if this is the area that Rolling Thunder had to miss because of fires. That would mean this is where he came back to redo this year and saw all the snow. Nothing here now except way up the mountain.

Lunch break under Mt Jefferson I think
They went off to Big Lake Youth Camp to get their resupply box and I just trundled on. Until I met Nafta, TeaTree and A Train who reported not one but two chilly bins (“coolers” in american) of trail magic at the road, then I picked up the pace. Home made cookies and a Sierra Mist, mmmm. Then, reunited with the Noodleheads, I crossed the road and found the other magic was staffed by Andrew and Ian. They had all sorts of stuff and as it was quickly getting cold we decided to just stay the night at the trail head. The latest weather report says 20% chance of rain tonight and sunny tomorrow so I’m cowboy camping again.

Two major measurements today. I completed 3/4 before lunch and passed the 2000 mile point after lunch. 2000 miles and I still have 25% to go!

Deal of the day: Angelhair wanted to save some weight so she gave me a king sized Snickers bar in return for a regular one. mmmm free calories

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Bend to Little Crater Lake

At 5:30 this morning it was still pitch black. Autumn is well underway and it makes me want to get north as soon as possible. Tradja drove us to the Elk Lake trail head and we began ascending into the clouds. The ground was damp which made for good walking but soon it began to drizzle and it hasn’t let up all day. When I stopped to put on my borrowed jacket Lucky Joe, Samurai Joe and Two Dogs caught up and for a while there we were in a convoy of seven hikers. After a little while those three, who have been on trail in the rain for the last few days, went on ahead. Moving fast to keep warm.

Rumble, Tradja, Rigatoni, Angelhair and Heaps

At Rigatoni’s request I came up with a suitable word to convert WIRD to Weather Induced Extra Rest Day. A WIERD. I also came up with a team name. Heaps of Rumbling Noodles a.k.a. Team Horn.

The rain wasn’t as cold as it could have been. We passed some small snow patches but I didn’t put on my gloves until the afternoon.

We started crossing lava fields and with the constant grey mist, basalt rubble and green lichen it felt very much like the Tongariro Crossing. We spent a while debating one un-signed junction, even to the point of going the right way, going back and trying the wrong way, then setting off on the right way again. Not a great thing to do when poor Angelhair was getting dangerously cold. She only said it once but I could see her shivering and it getting worse. I admire her for not losing it and giving up. Anyone who has come this far has to be a pretty determined sort of person so I wasn’t surprised really.

Great weather for ducks
Now I’m in my tent again. I haven’t put up the inside this time. Using the cord I prepared back home I set up the poles and dropped the outer cover over the top. It gives me more room to maneuver inside, though still not much and there is no proper floor. It’s a bit colder than the full set up, but I trust my sleeping bag.

We’ve all got our fingers crossed for sun tomorrow.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Bend to Little Crater Lake

Today was my first WIRD (Weather Induced Rest Day). That name was cooked up by the Noodleheads, another reason they’re cool to hike with.

More general eating and lazing was the order of the day. Everyone else, that being Tradja, Jess, Angelhair, Rigatoni and Rumble, went out for a bit more shopping during the day while I sat on the couch and watched movies. I suppose I thought about the rest of the trail too. Though there are 700 more miles to see I feel very close to the end. I’m 30 miles from the 3/4 mark so it’s not like stopping here is enough to be considered complete. I am not even considering stopping here, not now, not when it’s getting down to just a mental thing. I’ve sent all my food on. I just need to turn up and walk. That’s easy.

When the shoppers returned we fell into a gear weighing contest. We’ve all made some changes to our gear here, mine being in the rain protection area. I’m sending my Macpac rain jacket and Dry-Ducks jacket on and borrowing Tradja’s Marmot Precip. If it works out then I’ll probably buy one soon. Only $100USD and very light.

I’m accustomed to my stuff weighing more than everyone else’s but my hat was the lightest. IceBreaker saves the day

I fulfilled my chocolate and bananas food fantasy, then my ice-cream and chocolate fantasy, then pizza, and more ice-cream. Calorie wise I’m pretty well taken care of.

Calorie loading
The sun did shine on Bend today but not up there in Three Sisters Wilderness. From Tradja and Jess’ back deck we can see where the mountains should be but instead we’re faced with a foreboding wall of cloud, from which an alien space ship (a la Independence Day) could emerge. It’s just hanging there covering the hills. It may even be snowing up there and the forecast for tomorrow doesn’t sound great either. It’s 42 miles to Big Lake Youth Camp. Too far for one day so I expect I’m back in my little nylon box tomorrow.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Mt Thielsen to Bend

What an easy day. When the Noodleheads had sorted their Washington mail-drops we all went to the post office and sent our packages. I sent just one, to a place just 34 miles north of Cascade Locks. Yeah it cost me $9, but there’s 11lbs of food that I don’t have to carry up 4,000ft so I think it’s worth it. We also went to a gear store and happened upon Troll and Anchor (his wife). He’s a couple of days up ahead but I could make that time up before the end. I’m not sure who I’ll get to finish with. There are so many people I’d like to see at the monument, camping there is really appealing to me.

Tonight we’ve watched movies and I’ve spent lots of time online emailing home photos and videos. I keep thinking I’ll not see another computer before the end and they keep popping up. Very handy.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Mt Thielsen to Bend

Fall is well under way in Oregon. Thankfully rain hasn’t arrived yet but it was a surprise to be so cold this morning. Rumble, Angelhair and Rigatoni all left camp before I did but the thought of a town day got me moving fast and I passed them all within a few hours.

The trail tread here is great. The path is about two feet wide and soft to walk on. There are patches of almost sand-like material but mostly it’s just dirt with ground-in leaves, needles and general duff. Not as hard on the body as granite and more traction than sand.

meadow in the woods
It wasn’t until after 10am that I had control over my fingers. They’d been in that semi-frozen state of still moving but not fully responsive. The sun had been up but the dense forest kept me in shadow all morning. The lakes and ponds were beautifully still and reflective. A small mist drifted across the larger ones and I stood on the shore for a while trying to see it forming. It definitely came from one side and flowed to the other but was only visible over the water and not in the trees.

I churned out the miles and soon found myself at the first junction to Elk Lake Resort. Four hours into my day and I’d done a half marathon. That’s what a town day will motivate you to.

I continued to the second trail and on the way down I found Arnold, a fast looking Korean guy, talking to Tony, who has an impressive long red beard for someone in their late 20s. I got Arnold to teach me “thank you” in Korean, always a good word to know, then he went north and Tony and I went to the resort where he had already sorted out a ride to town.

Bend is by far the biggest town I’ve been in for a while, and so much of it is new. We’re way out of town with friends of the Noodleheads that stayed with them while doing the CDT. The strangest thing is Rumble already knew the guy here, Tradja, after walking with him 10 years ago. Small world.

So we’ve eaten, shopped, talked and eaten. World Market is a fun store. Besides interesting housewares they have foreign chocolates and pasta and such. I bought some Lion bars, Double Deckers and McVites Chocolate Digestives but resisted the urge to buy the super exotic Heinz Baked Beans.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Mt Thielsen to Bend

We found the Maiden Peak hut about a mile from where we camped. It was basic but would have been nice enough for the four of us. Instead we had woken to a mist. I probably noticed it first being the only one not in a tent. It was 4:30am and I figured it wasn’t wet enough to be worth getting up yet.

We walked in various groupings throughout the morning. It was reasonably easy going and though we were mostly in dense forest there were occasional breaks at lakes. Just before lunch we passed through a big section of a forest fire from 1998. It was really erie to walk amongst the still standing dead trees. Blue sky above, small patches of green below and a wall of grey needles all around. I imagine this is what it feels like to be a nit walking on a buzz-cut head.

We met a party of assorted adults and children who cheerily informed us they’d been playing a game with the kids setting up little obstacles on the trail. We found them pretty soon. Chest high branches, a big log, a few sticks on the ground. We removed every one. As fun as that must be for the children, this is a hiking path and that sort of stuff is not helping at all. Then we came to an unmarked intersection. As is PCT style one path had a bunch of sticks across it, or was that just the kids playing?

The afternoon saw us return to the woods and pass many more lakes. Some are sizeable and clear, good enough to swim in on a warm day, but most are stagnant little things and the mosquitos don’t let you slow down to look.

At dinner I counted my wrappers for the day. With two bagels (290 each), six bars, a fair chunk of cheese, two tortillias, a pile of chocolate raisins and peanuts, Lipton Pasta and a packet of instant noodles I think I cleared 3,300 calories for the day. And I’m still hungry.

Today’s food fantasy: Cold bananas dipped in warm chocolate

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Mt Thielsen to Bend