Third zero day in a row. Lots to eat, lots of sitting down and plenty of ice. My shin is feeling a lot better and I’m ready to hit the trail for a few miles tomorrow.

Lucky Joe’s family really have been wonderful, his nephews and niece are fun to play with and their parents are very encouraging of the trail thing. It’s a pity that Vortex and Blue Sky didn’t get to experience this. I think it may have tipped the balance in the trail’s favour. But alas it was not to be. They’ve gone home and only Blue Sky plans to return, and that won’t happen until Oregon.

It’s obviously very different down here in a town than out there in the woods, but this town is something else. There’s a heat wave going on right now so there’s a lot more of people on display than you see on the trail everyday. So settling in to town life hasn’t been that hard.

I continued my resting with ice packs and the big soft couch in Truckee. More tv, more internet and then finally packing my stuff into Dad’s pack. Lucky Joe called from South Lake Tahoe where his family where checking into a suite at the Marriot and I was invited.

Phil is a friend of Roger. Roger is a friend of Lance. Lance is my parent’s neighbour. And that’s why Phil drove me 40 miles south to meet up with Lucky Joe. We caught up on trail news, where people are, those that are on/off/lost. Now I’m in the hotel with my feet up and looking forward to another zero. This time with a pool.

I’ve been taking some much needed rest here in Truckee.

Roger and Lori left me with a house full of food and a fast internet connection so I’ve been a happy bunny. I also discovered a huge array of tv channels that I don’t want to watch. Most of the news I saw focused on the heat wave hitting the south west US and it has been noticable every time I step outside. It’s hard to imagine this house burried in 6ft snow drifts but it happens most years.

The three of us went out to dinner and had a great dessert at Dairy Queen.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Donner Pass to Belden

I woke to see a thin sliver of light breaching the horizon. The pale grey surface below was Lake Tahoe and the air was warm, much warmer than the last few days when I have been walking with my jacket and gloves for quite a way. I set off around the rim of a steep gully heading north towards a butte to watch sunrise. As I got closer I saw a figure come over the little ridge towards me. It stopped and took a photo of me with the moon behind. As I got closer I recognised GottaGo, a lady I met at the ADZPCTKO back in April and before that on the PCT-L email list. She was a bit miffed at how I was heading north but going in the opposite direction to her. It turns out she had paced back and forth so much trying to find a camping spot that when getting up and moving in the dark she’d set off south. Luckily she’d lost less than a mile.

We caught up on trail news as we walked and then I picked up my pace to keep on target for the day. The first few miles were along the crest. Much like the final approach to Mt. Whitney, the trail was on the west side but kept getting gaps to peer down the steep eastern slopes and across the valley.

The first climb was to Granite Chief and I was quite disappointed not to see any major rock formations. I thought there would be something chiefy up there but I didn’t see it. A dip down to South West Fork American River and then the afternoon climb to the crest just below Tinker’s Knob. Up there the trail is right on the crest. A broad ridge very wind-swept and giving the crows some cool vents to ride on. I watched as they took off from a big rock, sailed down the hillside to a thermal where they’d rise back up and glide back to the same perch. All without flapping even once.

I ate what I could and then wound my way past Anderson Peak, Mount Lincoln and Mount Judah. It was here I found one more snow patch and crammed as much of it as I could into my water bottle. Mmmm slushie. The final few miles of most days are hard, and today was no exception. I came down steep switchbacks of fist sized granite boulders. Each of which was a twisted ankle just waiting to happen. Eventually I reached Old Highway 40 and staggered into the Donner Ski Ranch. The friendly barman had an icy glass of water waiting for me before I’d set my pack down and gave me his own phone to call for a lift.

Roger and Lori are friends of my parents’ neighbours and offered to host me as I came through the area. Back at their house I met a bunch of locals all gathered for an Independence Day BBQ. They all seemed interested in the trail and my adventures along it but I was so exhausted I couldn’t help but fumble my words and concentrate more on eating than conversation. Night drew in and the party dwindled. After a whole tub of ice-cream (they must have read my blog and prepared) I was full and ready for bed but somehow the computer sucked me in and a few hours later I finally crawled between nice clean sheets and shut my eyes. A very long day, but tomorrow is all about ice-packs, eating and giant-screen TVs.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Sonora Pass to Donner Pass

Steve was ready before I was and after a proper breakfast of cereal, milk and *fresh strawberries* I was kindly driven back to Echo Lake and set loose on the PCT. I thought I’d see Blue Sky and her parents today but they must have been on a side trail as I whizzed by. I pushed on like crazy so that I could make tomorrow shorter and get to Truckee at a reasonable time. Getting up to Dicks Pass was like being in the high sierras again. Lake Aloha was gorgeous. A chilling blue colour set against speckled granite and dotted with countless islands it was just begging to be swum in, but it was too early and too cold for me.

The only PCTer I saw was Rest Stop and he was able to give good info on the whereabouts of a few people.

I made Barker Pass, 32 miles from Echo Lake, within 13 hours of setting off and took a photo by the sign to prove it. Dinner was short and sweet and now I’m up on the ridge with a view across Lake Tahoe. I was told by a south-bounder there’d be fireworks in Squaw Valley, but that’s 10+ miles away and here will do quite nicely. I think I can hear something exploding over the hill though.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Sonora Pass to Donner Pass

Keen to get to Echo Lake and find Blue Sky I set off pretty early and drank my usual instant breakfast as I walked. Ryley managed to catch me just before the road where he hitched into town (South Lake Tahoe) and I climbed an unexpected hill. Aren’t lakes usually downhill?

Walking across the car park I spied a lady unloading some good sized hiking packs. Wearing bright pink Crocs it could only be Kathy, Blue Sky’s mum.
“SunWalker?”
“Kathy?
“I’m so glad you made it”
“Me too” and I collapsed onto the store’s front step. Blue Sky was in the car and we talked about Vortex’s absence and how I think she should continue. She seems to be still debating it but my hopes are high that she’ll stick it out and that will encourage him to come back too.

As we were talking Steve Porto came over. His son hiked the PCT in 2002 and now he and his wife open their cabin to those that are lucky enough to be at the lake when he’s down there. My original plan was to fill up on ice cream and chocolate before doing some more miles, but the offer of proper food and a shower and an ice-pack was too much.

Billy Goat, Heidi (now called Two Dogs), Stormin’ Norman and Hell On Wheels came too. The cabin was great, with cliff top views down to a cute little valley. I started eating not long after I got there and didn’t really stop all day. We made a town trip where I resupplied for the two-day hop to Truckee and sent my bear cannister back to Agua Dulce. Back at the cabin we talked and ate all night. Steve cooked an amazing tri-tips, or triple steak or something to do with three and Peggy made salad, garlic bread, dip, roast potatoes and more. It was an incredible feast. I must have gained four or five much needed lbs in one day, I am full and delighted, but I have been anxious to get back to hiking. Only 8 miles today means two 30s to reach Truckee. Can my shins take it?

Throughout the evening Steve asked each of us what we had gotten from the trail. I can’t say I’ve gotten all that much, nothing deep and meaningful anyway. It’s been a great adventure so far but I’m too busy to do any soul searching. I do know I’m impatient and that makes me walk further than I should and endangers my hike. I’ll work on that.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Sonora Pass to Donner Pass

The wonder drug ibuprofen is my saviour. Two at breakfast, two at lunch and two after dinner and I’ve felt almost fine the whole time. I’m buying much more of it at Echo Lake for next time my legs start to swell.

The day was undulating lots, though staying in a fairly narrow band. I had lots of bars to eat knowing I will resupply at Echo Lake tomorrow. At lunch I found a grassy spot at a point labeled in the data book as “saddle southwest of The Nipple”. With various colourful wild flowers in bloom around me and the warm sun above I lay on my back and totally relaxed, it was marvelous. I did need to press on though because I’d lost half an hour this morning when the guide book said to follow the road 70 yards south when it should have said “walk straight across the dirt road”. I walked almost half a mile up hill before turning back. Grrr

I saw Heidi again, this time the dogs were need…

Something large just made a thump in those trees over there. Usually it’s deer, but sometime it’s going to be a bear.

…needing a rest so all three were sitting in the shade. Siestas, oh how I miss them.

I carried on at my normal pace until finally popping out at Carson Pass to find six other hikers in residence and two more to pass through before I left. Eating dinner at a table was a treat, and with a phone there I checked my email and got terrible news. Vortex has withdrawn from the PCT. After returning from his brother’s wedding the miles were too much so he left from Sonora. He said Blue Sky is at Echo Lake and also debating the trail. That sure got me going. I shouldered my pack, popped two ibuprofens, set my iPod to a faster playlist and almost ran up that hill. I hope to get to Echo Lake early tomorrow to catch her and her mum before they set out. It’d be a real shame if she pulled out too and maybe her continued presence will motivate Vortex to come back. We’ll see.

Now I need to lie down and ignore the monster in the darkness.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Sonora Pass to Donner Pass

I’m pretty sure I’ve developed a shin splint. I over did it and now I’m paying for it. Luckily I’ve met Ryley who is proof that one can recover and carry on hiking. He gave me some ibuprofen (a.k.a. Vitamin I, an anti-inflamatory) and advice as we walked this afternoon. The advice is to have a rest and once I reach Truckee that’s just what I’ll do. It turns out that the pain-killers Dad left me also have ibuprofen in too so they’ll help the inflamation go down and help me ignore the pain in the mean time.

But before I discovered all this I was grimacing as I limped along. At first I thought I could use my hiking poles to keep the pressure off my left foot, but I couldn’t develop a sustainable gait. I tried Dr. Bug’s* idea of making an ice pack by wrapping snow in a bandana and applying it to the swelling. It may have worked but I wasn’t making any progress north that way. Then I tried distraction. Food fantasies come easily out here. I thought of lying on the couch at The Green Pub (my old flat in NZ) all weekend, catching up on TV shows and making trips to Burger King, Wendy’s and The Flying Horse. But that just made me hungry so I switched to the iPod instead. Still the foot hurt and still I forced myself to go on, feeling a little glum and generally needing something to lift my spirits.

I crossed Ebbet’s Pass and soon met the answer in the form of a couple of lovely day-hikers. They’ve been reading a few trail journals and knew plenty about the PCT. Immediately they offered fresh fruit and some Clif bars which I ate with delight and perked right up. On hearing I’m from New Zealand they mentioned a book they’d read, Dances With Marmots, and of course they were surprised to hear the author (one George Spearing) worked with my neighbour.

Feeling emotionally better I walked on and talked with Heidi, a recent graduate and now doing Sonora Pass to Oregon (700+ miles) with her two dogs. I’m 40% done and still meeting new people. Which is good because trying to catch Blue Sky and Vortex had nearly forced me off trail.

Early to bed early to rise, helps my foot heal and get in the miles.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Sonora Pass to Donner Pass

*Dr. Bug may not be an actual Dr

If there was a class on When To Quit I’d fail it. Today makes my third 30 miler in a row and I’m borderline about to take a pain-killer pill Dad left for me. Back to the beginning…

I felt like I was sleeping in when I ignored my watch alarm and didn’t get up until 6 when the mosquitoes starting dive bombing me. After yesterday’s undue undulations I feel this morning’s ridge was much more Pacific Cresty. I spent a while being buffeted about by the cold wind and did what I assume to be my last snow crossing. The pourous volcanic rock meant no standing water and thus no little blood suckers. The familiar black rock with lichen motif reminded me of home, but the snow-capped sierras behind let me know where I really was.

Sonora Pass was short and sweet. I had secretly hoped for some trail magic, like a box of chocolate or Meadow Ed with a BBQ. But no one was there and I went up to 10,000ft for the last time all alone. The view was nice the air was clean but I wanted to get moving. The afternoon sure did drag out. Plodding down a canyon I began to wonder if boredom could end a hike. I hope not. Some time in here my foot started aching again and if Old Corpus hadn’t said he’d seen Vortex and Blue Sky yesterday I would have given in to the ache a long time ago.

As it was I went on. Probably very unwisely and adding more stress to whatever particular tendon is being over-worked. A south-bounder said he saw people matching their descriptions heading for Golden Lake. Well I’m nearly there now but the light faded and I’m too sore to be much more use tonight. The search continues tomorrow, much slower and with a lot more sitting down.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Tuolumne Meadows to Sonora Pass

Point to point I am 30 miles away and 1100ft higher than last night, but that doesn’t portray the fact that I actually climbed 5,500ft over four big ridges today. But that’s not the number to get excited about. At roughly 6:30pm I charged passed the 1000 mile mark. I would have stopped except I was looking for the footbridge (now apparently just a log) that the databook measures to. Sweep and Backpacker came along shortly and made a sign with rocks whilst being eaten alive by a million mosquitoes.

Enough with the numbers, what does it feel like to walk this far? Well I’m worn out once again, but that’s just from the last two days of overdoing it. I’ll do less tomorrow and feel better. The best feeling today was deciding to stop for a moment and jump in a cold river. I cleaned a few days of grime off, I washed my socks and even drank the water straight (not in that order). I’ll try to make more time for relaxing and fun from now on.

My feet are in pretty good shape now so I might consider losing the Vaseline and Badger Balm. I’ve got a new pair of Montrail Continental Divide shoes coming to Truckee. Anyone who hears a salesman saying “your feet will wear out before these shoes will” hasn’t heard of this trail.

Being dirty and smelly is part of the territory. I have one day-shirt that I love but it gets grotty quickly. It already looks like the front of a car with all the mosquitoes I’ve squashed on it. I even got a few caught in my air-intake valve today.

I don’t think it has been any harder than I expected. We’ve had a pretty easy year with low snow on the passes. Being solo in the woods doesn’t bother me, in fact I had to try really hard to out pace Geezer today because he did that annoying thing of going faster as soon as I passed. I really love just putting my sleeping mat out and getting into my bag. Tentless is the way to go, but I’m not brave/silly enough to be out here without one, so that’s another kilo I must carry just-in-case.

I’ve enjoyed the new friends I’ve met. Some are ahead and I’ll see them soon, some are far behind and I may never see them again. I hope a few will visit New Zealand next year.

Carrying enough food is an issue. I can eat a lot more than I have been. I wonder if that will continue when I get home, maybe without doing 20+ miles per day I’ll manage to put on some weight. Food cravings are hard to avoid. Upon reaching town I buy a large gatorade, a pint of ice-cream and a bag of crisps. Just to tide me over until I get a burger. Right now I’m thinking about a big bar of Cadbury chocolate, mmmmm. It’s been a lot more expensive than I expected. I hear there aren’t many motels from now on but it’s the food and gear that adds up so quickly

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Tuolumne Meadows to Sonora Pass