I woke to see a thin sliver of light breaching the horizon. The pale grey surface below was Lake Tahoe and the air was warm, much warmer than the last few days when I have been walking with my jacket and gloves for quite a way. I set off around the rim of a steep gully heading north towards a butte to watch sunrise. As I got closer I saw a figure come over the little ridge towards me. It stopped and took a photo of me with the moon behind. As I got closer I recognised GottaGo, a lady I met at the ADZPCTKO back in April and before that on the PCT-L email list. She was a bit miffed at how I was heading north but going in the opposite direction to her. It turns out she had paced back and forth so much trying to find a camping spot that when getting up and moving in the dark she’d set off south. Luckily she’d lost less than a mile.

We caught up on trail news as we walked and then I picked up my pace to keep on target for the day. The first few miles were along the crest. Much like the final approach to Mt. Whitney, the trail was on the west side but kept getting gaps to peer down the steep eastern slopes and across the valley.

The first climb was to Granite Chief and I was quite disappointed not to see any major rock formations. I thought there would be something chiefy up there but I didn’t see it. A dip down to South West Fork American River and then the afternoon climb to the crest just below Tinker’s Knob. Up there the trail is right on the crest. A broad ridge very wind-swept and giving the crows some cool vents to ride on. I watched as they took off from a big rock, sailed down the hillside to a thermal where they’d rise back up and glide back to the same perch. All without flapping even once.

I ate what I could and then wound my way past Anderson Peak, Mount Lincoln and Mount Judah. It was here I found one more snow patch and crammed as much of it as I could into my water bottle. Mmmm slushie. The final few miles of most days are hard, and today was no exception. I came down steep switchbacks of fist sized granite boulders. Each of which was a twisted ankle just waiting to happen. Eventually I reached Old Highway 40 and staggered into the Donner Ski Ranch. The friendly barman had an icy glass of water waiting for me before I’d set my pack down and gave me his own phone to call for a lift.

Roger and Lori are friends of my parents’ neighbours and offered to host me as I came through the area. Back at their house I met a bunch of locals all gathered for an Independence Day BBQ. They all seemed interested in the trail and my adventures along it but I was so exhausted I couldn’t help but fumble my words and concentrate more on eating than conversation. Night drew in and the party dwindled. After a whole tub of ice-cream (they must have read my blog and prepared) I was full and ready for bed but somehow the computer sucked me in and a few hours later I finally crawled between nice clean sheets and shut my eyes. A very long day, but tomorrow is all about ice-packs, eating and giant-screen TVs.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Sonora Pass to Donner Pass

Steve was ready before I was and after a proper breakfast of cereal, milk and *fresh strawberries* I was kindly driven back to Echo Lake and set loose on the PCT. I thought I’d see Blue Sky and her parents today but they must have been on a side trail as I whizzed by. I pushed on like crazy so that I could make tomorrow shorter and get to Truckee at a reasonable time. Getting up to Dicks Pass was like being in the high sierras again. Lake Aloha was gorgeous. A chilling blue colour set against speckled granite and dotted with countless islands it was just begging to be swum in, but it was too early and too cold for me.

The only PCTer I saw was Rest Stop and he was able to give good info on the whereabouts of a few people.

I made Barker Pass, 32 miles from Echo Lake, within 13 hours of setting off and took a photo by the sign to prove it. Dinner was short and sweet and now I’m up on the ridge with a view across Lake Tahoe. I was told by a south-bounder there’d be fireworks in Squaw Valley, but that’s 10+ miles away and here will do quite nicely. I think I can hear something exploding over the hill though.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Sonora Pass to Donner Pass

Keen to get to Echo Lake and find Blue Sky I set off pretty early and drank my usual instant breakfast as I walked. Ryley managed to catch me just before the road where he hitched into town (South Lake Tahoe) and I climbed an unexpected hill. Aren’t lakes usually downhill?

Walking across the car park I spied a lady unloading some good sized hiking packs. Wearing bright pink Crocs it could only be Kathy, Blue Sky’s mum.
“SunWalker?”
“Kathy?
“I’m so glad you made it”
“Me too” and I collapsed onto the store’s front step. Blue Sky was in the car and we talked about Vortex’s absence and how I think she should continue. She seems to be still debating it but my hopes are high that she’ll stick it out and that will encourage him to come back too.

As we were talking Steve Porto came over. His son hiked the PCT in 2002 and now he and his wife open their cabin to those that are lucky enough to be at the lake when he’s down there. My original plan was to fill up on ice cream and chocolate before doing some more miles, but the offer of proper food and a shower and an ice-pack was too much.

Billy Goat, Heidi (now called Two Dogs), Stormin’ Norman and Hell On Wheels came too. The cabin was great, with cliff top views down to a cute little valley. I started eating not long after I got there and didn’t really stop all day. We made a town trip where I resupplied for the two-day hop to Truckee and sent my bear cannister back to Agua Dulce. Back at the cabin we talked and ate all night. Steve cooked an amazing tri-tips, or triple steak or something to do with three and Peggy made salad, garlic bread, dip, roast potatoes and more. It was an incredible feast. I must have gained four or five much needed lbs in one day, I am full and delighted, but I have been anxious to get back to hiking. Only 8 miles today means two 30s to reach Truckee. Can my shins take it?

Throughout the evening Steve asked each of us what we had gotten from the trail. I can’t say I’ve gotten all that much, nothing deep and meaningful anyway. It’s been a great adventure so far but I’m too busy to do any soul searching. I do know I’m impatient and that makes me walk further than I should and endangers my hike. I’ll work on that.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Sonora Pass to Donner Pass

The wonder drug ibuprofen is my saviour. Two at breakfast, two at lunch and two after dinner and I’ve felt almost fine the whole time. I’m buying much more of it at Echo Lake for next time my legs start to swell.

The day was undulating lots, though staying in a fairly narrow band. I had lots of bars to eat knowing I will resupply at Echo Lake tomorrow. At lunch I found a grassy spot at a point labeled in the data book as “saddle southwest of The Nipple”. With various colourful wild flowers in bloom around me and the warm sun above I lay on my back and totally relaxed, it was marvelous. I did need to press on though because I’d lost half an hour this morning when the guide book said to follow the road 70 yards south when it should have said “walk straight across the dirt road”. I walked almost half a mile up hill before turning back. Grrr

I saw Heidi again, this time the dogs were need…

Something large just made a thump in those trees over there. Usually it’s deer, but sometime it’s going to be a bear.

…needing a rest so all three were sitting in the shade. Siestas, oh how I miss them.

I carried on at my normal pace until finally popping out at Carson Pass to find six other hikers in residence and two more to pass through before I left. Eating dinner at a table was a treat, and with a phone there I checked my email and got terrible news. Vortex has withdrawn from the PCT. After returning from his brother’s wedding the miles were too much so he left from Sonora. He said Blue Sky is at Echo Lake and also debating the trail. That sure got me going. I shouldered my pack, popped two ibuprofens, set my iPod to a faster playlist and almost ran up that hill. I hope to get to Echo Lake early tomorrow to catch her and her mum before they set out. It’d be a real shame if she pulled out too and maybe her continued presence will motivate Vortex to come back. We’ll see.

Now I need to lie down and ignore the monster in the darkness.

More photos of this day’s journey can be found at Sonora Pass to Donner Pass